River View Cemetery, located at the corner of Taylors Ferry
and Macadam in south Portland, is a largely undocumented gem that I’ve written
about here before. Founded by three of the
most influential Portlanders of the 19th century, William S. Ladd,
Henry Corbett and Henry Failing, and designed by the noted landscape architect
Edward O. Schwagerl, River View’s construction began in 1879 and the cemetery’s
governing Association was formed (in Ladd’s office) in December 1882. For the past few weeks I’ve been writing up
what will likely qualify as the most detailed history of River View, from its
beginnings through all the changes over the past 130+ years. This is a continuation of earlier work, all
related to the construction that will replace the Sellwood Bridge, just east of
the cemetery main entry gates. Lately I've been researching transportation to River View.
Macadam Avenue, the road that runs the length of the
cemetery, west of the river and the railroad line, has an interesting history. Begun in 1863 by the creatively named Macadamizied
Road Company, the route was initially a toll road, providing access to the
Fulton House (later renamed the Red House) near Taylors Ferry, and then the
White House (there’s that creativity again), which was located further to the
south, toward Oswego (no "Lake" yet). The color-coded houses were saloons of sorts (the White House had a racetrack too), and seem to have
been semi-tolerated retreats of the type later called “speakeasys.” Apparently there was enough traffic to
justify what was considered the best roadbed in the Portland area and the road was often just called "The White House Road." When the White House burned in a spectacular
fire in July 1904, it was described as “a resort of sybaritic splendor” (!). About 1880 the Macadam Road was sold to Multnomah County and the tolls were
ended.
Macadam, named after Scottish engineer John Macadam, was a
mixture of tar and small gravel, compacted into a state-of-the-art smooth
surface. Mr. Macadam called it “Tarmac,”
essentially a predecessor to today’s common asphalt road surface. The White House Road, with its long
straight-aways along the riverfront, quickly became the favorite hangout of
Portland’s horse set, attracting races between the city’s fastest
carriages. The Multnomah Driving Club, unimpressed by the County's maintenance of the road, actually raised its own funds to periodically grade and water the route (to reduce dust) so that they could race in style. It’s not hard to envision grudge
matches a’la American Graffiti, with the loser buying everyone a round at the
White House.
The route along the river was a logical place for new forms of transport too. River View was located where it was, at least
partially, because it avoided the ferry across the river to Lone Fir Cemetery. River View built its own wharf, where
steamboats with funeral corteges could tie up before the carriage ride up the
hill to the gravesite, but the day's of steamboats were numbered. One of Portland’s first electric trolley lines led from
downtown to River View (and the Greenwood Hills Cemetery, nearby). That line, completed by mid-October 1889, was
called the Fulton-Cemeteries Line. It was among the city's most popular, and beautiful, rides, cruising along the river, with views to Mt. Hood, and the cemetery itself. People would take weekend excursions to River View, both to visit the dead and have a picnic lunch under the trees. By
the turn-of-the-century the City & Suburban Railway Company was running
special “funeral cars” directly to the cemetery, after building a depot within
its grounds. The Southern Pacific
Railroad (built upon a narrow gauge route developed by the Portland &
Willamette Valley RR), also had a line running parallel to Macadam. When SP built a standard gauge line for its
trains, it converted the earlier route for use by its Red Electric Interurbans. And finally, as carriages and trolleys gave
way to automobiles, the old Macadam Road was widened and upgraded again and
emerges as a portion of Oregon’s Pacific Highway, later US Highway 99, the
major route along the entire west coast of the nation.
While River View’s history inside the gate is fascinating,
and certainly worthy of the extended study it’s finally getting, there’s a lot
of transportation history just to the east.
Next time you drive down what is now SW Macadam Avenue, imagine yourself
in a fine carriage, pulled by a fast pair.
Maybe you can stop somewhere had have a beer.
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